Saturday 31 December 2011

You can never have enough garlic.

I know some won't agree but lovers of garlic know this is true. There is something seductively delicious about garlic whether in whole knobs slathered in olive oil and baked, crushed and added to pasta sauce, in stir fry or eaten raw.

It has been a great year for garlic in the garden. We have several varieties on hand, all with their own unique flavour notes. The Xian is earthy, the Italian White and Purple Monaro are sweeter and nuttier and the Ail de Pays Gers has a spicy heat that is reminiscent of garlic as eaten in France.

I have been reading about European peasant foods of late and recently came across a 70's recipe for a white gazpacho made with stale bread, freshly harvested garlic, olive oil and almonds. Who could resist! Garlic's flavour changes as it dries and matures but new season garlic has a moisture and freshness of flavour that lends itself to being used raw.



This recipe is a variation on the one in Rick Stein's book Spain  and there was little point deviating from the near perfect combination of ingredients, although there are a million equally luscious variations on the web. I could have made three times the batch as it is just as good for a high end dinner with friends as it is standing at the fridge drinking it from the container at midnight when it's still 29 degrees C. This is nirvana for garlic lovers and guaranteed to make your eyes roll back in your head.

I used Italian white garlic which has a slightly sweeter, milder flavour profile and a stale half loaf of white sourdough. I didn't worry about finding whole almonds, using a packet of left over ground almonds from the pantry fits with my resolution to use up the pantry contents. I do think that you need a really good olive oil, and sherry vinegar  has the right acidity for this soup. Remember that this is peasant food don't ever worry about experimenting, as long as you stick to the basic proportions you can't go far wrong.

My version is perfect for two people with some left over for lunch the next day. We followed it with a ham and peach salad using up the last of the Christmas ham.

Ajo blanco de Malaga (White Gazpacho with garlic, almonds and grapes)

120gms of stale white sourdough crusts removed
600mls of ice cold water (more or less to achieve the right consistency)
3 cloves of garlic chopped (add more or less according to your own taste)
60gms of almond meal or fresh blanched almonds whatever you have on hand
approx 80mls of good extra virgin olive oil
2 1/2 to 3 tbsp sherry vinegar
salt
approx 12 large seedless green grapes sliced in half

Chop bread into chunks and soak in 400mls of ice cold water for half an hour or until soft. Place in  food processor with garlic and almonds and process till smooth. Add oil in a thin stream while processor is running. It should emulsify into a thick pungent paste. 

With the processor running add  the sherry vinegar, a good pinch of salt (about a teaspoon) and enough ice cold water to make a soupy consistency. The soup is better a little thicker than thinner. You can add more ice cold water before serving if it thickens further in the fridge. Taste and adjust seasonings, but be careful, the garlic flavours will grow and develop as the soup chills so don't be tempted to add more garlic.

Chill well for two to three hours, or more, in the coldest part of the fridge.

Serve in chilled bowls with a scattering of grape halves, a drizzle of olive oil and a little cracked black pepper.

You'll be speaking Spanish in no time!

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